Joe on Coz Mama Roof - Castle Rock Bouldering

Joe giving us some beta for the low start of Coz Mama Roof (V9).

Joe Bouldering at Castle Rock

It felt great to be back bouldering at Castle Rock, never mind, if the highway 17 was a parking lot after someone destroyed a poll and pull down the telephone line.

Rob and I warmed up at the Magoos and we quickly moved to check the A** arete. This compression problem can be done using the left and right arete, while with the direct variation, the right arete is off limit.

Just right after, we climbed with Joe, a super strong climber. He gave me a ton of new betas that just work. He quickly sent Hueco wall and Hueco wall traverse.

Joe crushing the Hueco wall traverse (V8).

Joe working on a variation of deforestation, skipping the nasty crimps.

Tamarack Bouldering

Tamarack bouldering can be found a few miles before Bear Valley village. A few weeks ago, I noticed that nice horizontal crack which was a bit high (15 feet). We came back prepared with a rope and a few slings, so we could set up an anchor.
The anchor was flaky but the kids managed to climb half of the route and the anchor did not blew off.

Rope and bouldering do not match too well! Trying to remember the anchor class 101.

Natural rest!

View from Bear Valley resort. The snow is on its way!

Pacific Edge Bouldering Video

Bouldering Bas Cuvier France

About 1 year and half ago, we met at Fontainebleau Bas Cuvier, Telopa's family.

Lucas doing what he does best: Clown.

Checking a 7a which was way too hard.

Benoit was with his grand parents.

Bear Valley Bouldering

Bear Valley winter season is approaching fast. We meet at Bear Valley to discuss about the Devo Team. If the snow is on time, we will be on the slope for the first weekend of December.

On Saturday night, we spend the night at Murphys in. They must have taken that frog from Angel camp.

We are standing in front of our cabin in Arnold that we rent for the winter season.

Benoit and Lucas are ready :)

After the meeting, Robert and the kids had a fun bouldering session at Bear Valley. The weather was perfect with a temperature around 60 degree.

Benoit has a great crack climbing technique.

Lucas with his new hat.

The Roof Problem - Castle Rock Bouldering

Joel working the roof problem at Indian Rock.

Goat Rock Cave

Castle Rock was so cold and windy this morning that we decided to pay a visit to Goat Rock, which has some nice and easy top rope climbs. From the top of the rock, a nice cave can be found. We fooled around on the 540 problem for a while and moved to a much quieter area Klinghoffer.

Magoos Castle Rock Bouldering

The conditions have been near perfect at Castle Rock with super sticky rocks and no bugs. Rob, Joel, Brian and I climbed at the Magoos and worked some contrived sloppy problems.

Rob putting to rest the unnamed and most sandbag V3.

Brian working the end of the long traverse.

Joel

Tree in The Wall - Castle Rock Bouldering - Morning Session

Yet, another bouldering morning session at Castle Rock - Tree in the Wall with Brian, Joel and Rob.

Rob warming up on Crustacean.

Joel crimping his way out Tree problem.

Brian opening moves on Tree problem.

Joel "cruzing" the corridor arete.

Brian checking his options on the Corridor arete.

Corridor Arete - Castle Rock Bouldering

Joel and I went back to the Tree in the Wall boulders. We got to climb a new line that I spotted a few days back but could not complete because of the poor landing. The name of the climb is The corridor arete (V2).

Extension to the Crustacean Transformation route. Traverse right to the large hueco. Scary because the climb cannot be protected with crash pad, but not too hard.

New route that Ryan put a few weeks back. Start left hand in the crack side pull crimp and right hand sloppy hold, reach nob and dyno to large hueco. I do not have the name of the climb or the grade yet.

The nice (!!) crack is called Benoit's route (V0). On the right of the crack, unnamed route starts from a large hold and go up on fragile flake (V0).

Corridor arete (V2) starts right hand on tiny side pull crimp (chest high) and good left hold (over head). Match starting hold, go to the nice flake and fire to a large hueco.

Turtle Rock Bouldering - San Francisco

Turtle Rock has great bouldering with an awesome vista to San Francisco and Marin County. Benoit sent his first V1, very powerful, overhanging, on good holds. Meantime, I almost (2 inches) put my hand on a snake on the top of the rock. I wonder what was that snake doing there but it did scare the shit out of me.

Benoit working the sit down start .

Nice work!

Sending the V4 low traverse.

V1 slab, a bit worry about lose rock.

The dream team.

Fort Ross Bouldering - Point Reyes

Fort Ross boulder is a huge piece of sandstone, way north Bodega bay. From Point Reyes campground, it took me a hour and half to get there. I got my ass kick and could only do the opening moves of the routes. I got too scared since I had not spotter. Next time, hopefully, Rob and Brian (the big guys) will join the party.


The view from the road is impressive, but do not get distracted because there is no room for mistakes, beside, cows are roaming the road freely.

Drunk As a Skunk - Castle Rock Bouldering

A few yards from Tree In the Wall main boulders, more routes can be found. Drunk as a Skunk is a great line, overhanging with not so big holds. Worth a try.

Route 1: Drunk as a Skunk V6

Route 2: Scalawag Traverse V3,
Route 3: Hornswaggle Mantle V4

Route 4: Poop-shoot Pirate V4,
Route 5: Pirate's Lookout V1,
Route 6: Ruperts Ride V2

Routes 7 and 8: Warm up slab

Route 9: Easy traverse