Joe on Coz Mama Roof - Castle Rock Bouldering

Joe giving us some beta for the low start of Coz Mama Roof (V9).

Joe Bouldering at Castle Rock

It felt great to be back bouldering at Castle Rock, never mind, if the highway 17 was a parking lot after someone destroyed a poll and pull down the telephone line.

Rob and I warmed up at the Magoos and we quickly moved to check the A** arete. This compression problem can be done using the left and right arete, while with the direct variation, the right arete is off limit.

Just right after, we climbed with Joe, a super strong climber. He gave me a ton of new betas that just work. He quickly sent Hueco wall and Hueco wall traverse.

Joe crushing the Hueco wall traverse (V8).

Joe working on a variation of deforestation, skipping the nasty crimps.

The Roof Problem - Castle Rock Bouldering

Joel working the roof problem at Indian Rock.

Goat Rock Cave

Castle Rock was so cold and windy this morning that we decided to pay a visit to Goat Rock, which has some nice and easy top rope climbs. From the top of the rock, a nice cave can be found. We fooled around on the 540 problem for a while and moved to a much quieter area Klinghoffer.

Magoos Castle Rock Bouldering

The conditions have been near perfect at Castle Rock with super sticky rocks and no bugs. Rob, Joel, Brian and I climbed at the Magoos and worked some contrived sloppy problems.

Rob putting to rest the unnamed and most sandbag V3.

Brian working the end of the long traverse.

Joel

Tree in The Wall - Castle Rock Bouldering - Morning Session

Yet, another bouldering morning session at Castle Rock - Tree in the Wall with Brian, Joel and Rob.

Rob warming up on Crustacean.

Joel crimping his way out Tree problem.

Brian opening moves on Tree problem.

Joel "cruzing" the corridor arete.

Brian checking his options on the Corridor arete.

Corridor Arete - Castle Rock Bouldering

Joel and I went back to the Tree in the Wall boulders. We got to climb a new line that I spotted a few days back but could not complete because of the poor landing. The name of the climb is The corridor arete (V2).

Extension to the Crustacean Transformation route. Traverse right to the large hueco. Scary because the climb cannot be protected with crash pad, but not too hard.

New route that Ryan put a few weeks back. Start left hand in the crack side pull crimp and right hand sloppy hold, reach nob and dyno to large hueco. I do not have the name of the climb or the grade yet.

The nice (!!) crack is called Benoit's route (V0). On the right of the crack, unnamed route starts from a large hold and go up on fragile flake (V0).

Corridor arete (V2) starts right hand on tiny side pull crimp (chest high) and good left hold (over head). Match starting hold, go to the nice flake and fire to a large hueco.

Drunk As a Skunk - Castle Rock Bouldering

A few yards from Tree In the Wall main boulders, more routes can be found. Drunk as a Skunk is a great line, overhanging with not so big holds. Worth a try.

Route 1: Drunk as a Skunk V6

Route 2: Scalawag Traverse V3,
Route 3: Hornswaggle Mantle V4

Route 4: Poop-shoot Pirate V4,
Route 5: Pirate's Lookout V1,
Route 6: Ruperts Ride V2

Routes 7 and 8: Warm up slab

Route 9: Easy traverse

Tree in The Wall - Castle Rock Bouldering

Mike and Ryan have discovered a new bouldering area at Castle Rock. The parking lot is about 2 miles from CR parking lot, south on the 35. The routes descriptions can be found on rockclimbing.

Route 1: Trailblazer Arete V0 and route 2: Crustacean Transformation V3

Route 3: Tree Trouble V5

Route 4: Gym Rat Mantle V3

Route 5: Barbed Wire V4

Route 8: Shit Stain V3

Route 6: Unnamed V0, Route 7: Bee's Nest V6

Indian Rock Bouldering

It has been too long since the last time I climbed at Castle Rock. Rob, Joel and I wanted to do that scary arete with a very poor landing but we chickened out , next time may be.

Carter showed us how it is done.

Bouldering at Castle Rock secret spot

Brian, Joel, Rob, Lucas, Benoit and I went to Castle Rock. The weather was more like summer and we enjoyed our bouldering session.

Castle Rock secret place boudering

Mark Cisco discovered that "secret spot" at Castle Rock about 3 years ago. I could not find the place so Rob kindly gave us a tour about 2 months ago. We probably climb about new 15 problems and have a couple of unfinished business and in particular the prow Atari.

Brian warming up.

Rob traversing the arete.

Brian sending Domino Theory

Brian and I spend our Saturday afternoon at Castle Rock. We first warmed up at the Magoos area with about one thousand climber. We soon moved to the Graveyard area with Steve who was visiting from Utah.

Brian sending the Domino Theory V4.

Steve sending The Domino V2.

Brian sequence on Domino Theory (click the photo to start the sequence of 17 photos).

Fall bouldering morning session at Castle Rock

Joel and I warmed up at the Magoos for about 1 hour since it was so cold and windy this morning, which means great sticky conditions. We, then, moved to the Hueco wall where I am working the traverse version. After that, we spend some time on the Egg Head Arete, which Joel send (the left variation).

Fun mental problem left of the slap.

Joe contemplating his worst nightmare Hueco Wall. Not a problem he likes not like me :)

Joel sent Egg Head Arete (left variation) and is working the direct variation (V8).

Epic Bouldering Session at Castle Rock

Brian and I met Rob at Castle Rock on Sunday afternoon. We found that place at Indian Rock which has some "new" boulders.

We got shut down by a few problems which are not in the video. Next time, if we can send them.

Bouldering morning session at Castle Rock (Indian Rock)

Joel and I had a good morning bouldering session at Castle Rock. We started at the Indian Rock side and after a short warm up tackled Santa Cruz dude route and traverse.
We, then, moved in some uncharted territory and discovered a few quite great looking boulders with sick killer arete which shut us done. We will be back :)

Joel sending the Santa Cruz dude traverse (for crimper junkies).

Boulder coming directly from my Sci-fi coming books with Joel cruzing the left arete.

Joel on the right arete.

The quite difficult arete which evaded all ours tries. I still believe it will go next time.

Same route with Joel sticking the opening move.

Morning session at Castle Rock

Joel and Eric joined us this morning for a early bouldering session at Castle Rock. We stayed at the main Castle Rock Proper. After few nice warm up routes, we decided to scale a scary arete but without success. We will be back!

Brian on the Spoon.

Eric flashing the Spoon.


Joel getting ready for the mantle.

Brian on the opening moves of the Castle Rock Proper arete.

Nice cave with great color.

Joel on the Castle Rock Proper arete.

Yabo roof at Castle Rock